Submitter & Author Information
Route submitted by: 
Allan Jacobs
Trip Date : 
Additional Route Information
0 km
8 days
Loop Trip: 
Portage Information
No. of portages: 
Total Portage Distance: 
5000 m
Longest Portage: 
5000 m
Difficulty Ratings
River Travel: 
Lake Travel: 
Background Trip Info
Water Levels: 
Route Description
Technical Guide: 

beach on Mara River, confluence with Burnside River, portage around Burnside Falls, Bathurst Inlet and Lodge

Trip Journal/Log/Report/Diary: 

Participants: John Girvin, Earl Cherniak, Peter Twynstra, Bobbie Cherniak, Don Ramsden and Alex KIeider

Preparatory information was obtained from the following sources, in approximate order of importance:
George Drought (supplied copies of his maps with his notes appended)
James Raffan: Summer North of Sixty
James Raffan: Mara/Burnside Report
Page Burt: Barren Land Beauties
Bathurst Inlet Internet Web Page

Relevant Maps (Canada Map Office)
1: 1,000,000: Thelon River NQ-12/13/14
1:500,000: Bathurst Inlet 76NW & 76NE; Upper Back 76SW & 76SE
1:250,000: Nose Lake 76F; Mara River 76K
1:50,000: 76F/ 6, 7, 10, 15, & 16; 76K/ 1, 2, 7, 8, 10, 15, & 16

Friday, June 27, 1997 Day -1

Left SFO at 1:25 pm on AC523; arrived Vancouver at 3:35; left at 5:00 pm on AC228; arrived Edmonton 7:26 pm; left at 8:15 pm on AC8957; arrived Yellowknife at 9:54 pm.

Alex left SFO late after taking the Marin Airporter to arrive in plenty of time. Still made the YEG connection in plenty of time after clearing customs with ease. During the trip I entered numerous way points into the G.P.S. and took a few photos from the air. En route to YEG and YZF the sun was on the port side and ahead (North West).
Everyone congregated in Yellowknife at the Explorer Hotel.
Earl arrived in Yellowknife early and did the shopping.
The rest arrived late and stayed up even later to pack.
"Mara River/1997" personally engraved carabineers were distributed. The sun went down but it didn't get dark. Weather overcast and chilly.

Saturday, June 28, 1997 Day 0 (Fly out day)
Got up before 5! John thought it was 6! Eventually the dining room opened and we had a huge breakfast. The Bathurst Lodge people were a little late getting us out but we were at their office ("Bathurst & Kingaunmiut - Partners in Tourism/Expediting 920-4330") at 9:14 am. From there, after some formalities, we were taken out to the airport and loaded up an Old Town Discovery and two Mad River canoes, our luggage and ourselves aboard Air Tindi's Twin Otter with plans (as we understood them) to land on an esker (the second one I'd marked on the river) instead of Nose Lake which was still frozen over.

En route John made the following notes:
Left YZF at 10:30.
Orientation of the small lakes seemed Northeast/Southwest rather than Northwest/Southeast as described by Raffan.
We passed through many small rain squalls and saw many more (each covering perhaps only 1-3 sq km) with an occasional ephemeral rainbow (one captured on film). There were some snow flurries. At 10:50 a temperature of 3 C was reported at Lupin on Contwoyto Lake.
McCrea Lake depicted on the NWT map is the same lake as that called Duncan Lake on the pilot's map.
Began seeing patches of snow at about 11:00 on south sides of elevations.
Winter Lake covered over with ice except at periphery and in a few central patches. (11:24hrs)
From 11:26hrs, small patches of snow continuously dot the terrain and infrequent patches of ice along the south shores of some small lakes.
11:50hrs- all large lakes frozen over large sections.
12:04hrs- crossed over Contwoyto Lake, frozen over, easily visible winter road Northwest/Southeast to Lupin Mine.

We landed river left, on a sandy beach, NOT on the Esker. It was bitterly cold with some light rain. After unloading, we watched the departure take off, getting an appreciation of the STOL characteristics of the Twin Otter.
John recalls his last humorous conversations with the pilot as "I looked around in the back of the twin otter to make certain that we had not left anything. I said to him: Surely you are not going to leave us here in this god-forsaken place?", to which he replied "Well, I don't know what you are going to do, but I am going back to Yellowknife and
have a hot bath and a drink!"

The official temperature at the time of our arrival on the esker was 2 degrees C. We got onto the water at 1 pm. Working under the premise that we had been deposited on the Esker when in fact we were on the opposite side of the river caused some disorientation and I even advocated paddling up river! We got sorted out and tried to make headway but within a few hundred yards we came out from the lee of the esker and had to fight directly into wind. [Don: “My recollection is that we paddled across the bay from our landing point, around a small island and then around the point into the teeth of the wind, a total of about 1/2 mile before we turned back and called it quits. I think our net distance traveled was probably in the neighborhood of 1/4 mile from the put-in point.] We were getting nowhere! We stopped for lunch, climbing up the East side of the esker. The wind showed no sign of abatement so we retreated back downriver and ended up making camp on river left to the south side of that same Esker just across a bay from where we had landed. We ended up staying there for two nights. Caribou were visible from the camp site on river right.

After setting up the tents everyone rested and then got up for a meal at 7 pm. The temp dropped from 40 to 39. After supper we hiked up the esker to the north of us. Up there the wind was phenomenal! Photos were taken from high above the camp. A herd of over 20 Muskoxen was seen from up there far in the West.

John remembers that "the fierceness of the wind was reflected in the fact that Earl's tent was taken out of the ground, pegs and all, including an intrinsic sleeping bag (Bobby's), and rolled out across the river without submerging!!! (This is the best testimony to the strength of the wind at the time.)"

To bed at 11:42 pm.

Sunday, June 29, 1997 Day 1 (Still wind bound.)

At 8:05 the sum seemed to be trying to poke through but it was still cold and very windy.

Peter's comments: Saturday- saw 3 groups of caribou, 2 of 5 each and 1 of 13, all three groups were foraging to the North. After an excellent supper of Herb soup, crinkle potatoes and brisket/gravy we went for a hike up mountain to the northwest from camp, very windy, temp 6 C. Saw herd of muskoxen foraging, 24 in total to the N. West. At point to East of camp scared up a red-breasted merganser sitting on 12 eggs!

Sunday- Still very much wind bound, mainly cloudy 10 o'clock 4 C. Saw a large fish jump near shore. Main group went for a walk. Caribou hoof it off towards southwest.

Sunday walk- Saw Lapland Longspurs & Horned Lark. We are repeatedly left with the impression that the wind is dying down or that the sky is clearing only to be disappointed as time passed.

It was on an evening trip up and over our esker that we first heard and then saw a pair of wolves on the hill side to the west. We sat for a long time watching them through binoculars and listening to their howls. John: “as thrilling for me as in spite of the number of trips I have taken to the North I have not seen them before.”

Monday, June 30, 1997 Day 2 (First day on the water.)

Left camp at 6:40 am after a 4: 18 exit from the tents to a clear sky with no wind. I canoed the stern with John in the bow.

A herd of caribou was seen above the river bank at 6056/73535. At 11:56 we were resting and eating in the canoes making good time at easting 604 and made even better time in the afternoon with a number of rapids in rapid succession towards the end of the day (614/73276).

This exhilarating ride came to a near tragic end when during a back ferry the current caught the stern and turned the canoe around. Before we could get the bow pointed down river again, we got caught by a rock just to the rear of center. A smaller rock on the other side of the canoe prevented it from simply pivoting off the bigger one. John and I jumped out onto the big rock and after some thought and discussion realized that there was nothing to do but jettison the luggage and hope the canoe could be dislodged once it was lightened. The others stood by and collected the packs as they came out of the rapids down stream. Once empty, the canoe could be lifted clear of the smaller rock and set free to follow the packs. I believe (but can't be sure) this occurred at 61400/73277. At the end of it all every thing seemed in order except that my Pelican camera case had taken on water (probably because of the huge hydrological pressures generated by the river flowing up against the case tied into the canoe; the seal seemed secure.) The cameras were not functioning!

We camped soon after at a lovely spot: C2 (615125/7331318) on river left arriving at
5: 13 pm. This would have been a good site from which to do my sun set/rise multiple exposure photograph but having no functioning camera, all I could do was try to dry out the photo gear. Knowing then what I know now, it's my belief that I could have gotten the cameras going much sooner, perhaps even that evening but that is a whole different topic. (The cameras did not take very long to dry out but it was the wet film which was the problem. The extra friction was too much for the motor drive. Solution: remove the film holding hands and camera deep inside a sleeping bag and winding the film back into the canister manually before bringing it out into the light. A roll thus salvaged exhibited an excess of blueness and had speck blemishes but nevertheless was well worth keeping. It was Fuji Sensia 100; other films may react differently.)

Several of us had a bath/swim in the 49F water: quick entry and exit would be an understatement. It was a lovely evening with sun coming through between cumulus clouds.

The Domaine Saint George '95 Cab' was not appreciated as much as the 1995 Louis M. Martini North Coast Merlot and the 1994 Clos du Bois Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon we had previously tried at our first camp. Nevertheless we partied into the night discussing (amongst other things) the price of Scotch. I've since checked the price tag on the bottle from which I had brought mine and it was just under US$40, much lower than Earl was inclined to believe it could be.

Tuesday, June 1, 1997 Day 3 (“Lost cup camp”)

In spite of a late (9:36 am) start we were on our way and changing maps (from 8 to 9; northing 7338) at 10:36. Before the map change there is a large bay to the north with the channel going to the west. The direction the river takes is not at all evident so future travelers are well advised to watch out for this part of the river and keep from getting caught doing a long tour of this uninteresting bay (6135/73338.) There were lots of swifts again. Peter (in the stern) and I (in the bow) got knocked over hitting a rock at the ledge terminating a series of rapids (at northing 73405) nearly capsizing and taking on a lot of water. We stopped to bail.

We stopped for lunch (I believe at 6083/73467) where Don caught a smallish fish that Peter identified as a grayling. Peter cleaned it for us and we had it later as a first course for supper.

En route towards the end of the day we came across the "amphitheater" camp site mentioned by Raffan (found at 6115/73598 on river right) but did not think it was a good tent site although it certainly was attractive.

Soon after, we chose a camp site (C3- 611993/7362966 reached at 4:44 pm) river right on a pleasant rocky shore with a stream coming in at the downstream end and backed by soft flat tundra, ideal for tents. The fishermen were out in full force but no catches. I put my drink down during an eventually successful effort to free up a lure that John had gotten caught in the river and that cup never was recovered so I think of this as the "lost cup camp.” We drank Clos du Bois with dinner but after last night's partying, everyone chose to retire early this night.

Wednesday, July 2, 1997 Day 4 (Muskoxen, Arctic Circle, Confluence Day)

We got onto the water at 8:45 am and had an excellent canoeing day of mostly fast water. There were only a few relatively short stretches of open water where we were exposed to the wind. We passed a number of ledges with large waves.

There is the major rapid/ledge/imini gorge at 6122/73665 which we were able to line (at 9:19 am) river left. It proved much easier than we initially thought.

Late in the morning we got a glimpse of a large herd of Muskoxen high above the left shore and pulled out to climb up to them The herd was a couple of dozen animals and I shot using the sunny 16 rule using Don's camera. They wouldn't let us get as close as I would have liked but it nevertheless was a thrill to see so many of these animals lining up in a standoff: then running away a bit then lining up again.

We gave up trying to make it to the Arctic Circle for lunch and stopped on a rocky shore near a tributary coming in from the left (5982/73725). We spent time checking out the great variety of rocks represented. There were large willow trees there: the only place we saw anything that deserves to be called a tree. It was only after lunch that we discovered that there were Muskoxen sleeping in the tributary valley only a stone's throw from us on the other side of willow bushes that had obscured them from view.

After lunch we stopped to pick up some ice to later make martinis! As it turned out, we needn't have because as we proceeded, more and more ice became evident and much of it was much more easily accessible than that which we collected. (John: " Wednesday our initial pickup, prior to arriving at the Circle was not ice but snow (you'll remember that you, Don and I cut out the snow with paddIes and filled up your wine sac). The ice which I finally got was really true arctic ice, i.e., as opposed to snow.")

We eventually did make it to the Circle, 300 m before the G.P.S. thought it should be, marked by a plastic orange survey stake. A few photos were taken, Don and I (canoe mates for this day) celebrated by immersing ourselves in the water, and we all carried on to and past the Mara/Burnside confluence which proved to be very smooth water, contrary to what was described by Raffan in his Mara report.

There were several places along this part of the river were there were huge walls of ice on the river banks above the rocky shore. Several rimes we investigated the possibility of camping behind the ice but quickly learned that if there was ice, there would be wet ground unsuitable for tent sites.

Camp was established on river right shortly after the confluence. It was characterized by a shore line of large rocks amongst which we made our kitchen. Many of these rocks seemed unstable and would wobble when stepped on, making walking along the shore somewhat treacherous. Further in from these rocks we set up our tents beyond some willows. The location had obviously been used before as evidenced by rocks arranged in circles, presumably previously used to tie down tents. That's certainly how we used these same rocks. A bit downstream was a tributary. The G.P.S. puts the camp site (C4) at 592148/7386160 @5:47 pm but according to the map the coordinates should be about 250 m further south and a bit to the east of this: a common degree of error noted on this trip: more than expected but not so much as to interfere with its usefulness.

Not long after arrival in camp, martinis were served to properly celebrate our having crossed the Arctic Circle by canoe. Don, John, Earl, Bobby & I had a bath (although I
must confess to not submersing my whole trunk, only the bottom part!) Earl made Fondue and we drank another liter of the Clos du Bois and a bottle of French wine Earl brought, not to mention the white wine used to make the Fondue.

I got one of my cameras going and we took a hike up to the top of the high hill to the Southeast of camp where we had a great view of the confluence and our camp site below. Some photos were taken of the flowers covering the ground.

It was a very pleasant evening as evidenced by a number of photographs taken around camp.

A strong North wind and some rain came up shortly after midnight and some of `us got up to tie down our tents more securely.

Thursday, July 3, 1997 Day 5 (“Mid trip wind bound day”)

No canoeing this day; because of the continuing strong wind and the cold (40F) we got up late deciding not to press on. Porridge was eventually served and then we went for a hike up the hill to the North of camp on the other side of the tributary (with another view of the confluence). This is were we saw the rock that looks like a tomb stone on which Earl scratched RIP and I scratched our names. Later Earl realized that he'd lost his binoculars and thought he had probably put them down at some point on this hike and left them behind never to be seen again. Again I took photos of the vistas, one with a group shot in the foreground complete with a small inukshuk and the flower carpet. It was on this hike that we found a most peculiar rock with things in it that we thought might be fossils. We identified two or three more flower species.

Hot soup for lunch followed by a siesta during which I spent some time using my Thermarest seat and writing in my log: listing the flowers we'd identified. Then I slept. The weather continued cold and intermittently rainy with brief periods hospitable enough to allow tent side socializing and some flower photographs. The wind continued as well.

We got up at 10:30 pm for soup as the evening meal along with onions and cucumber marinated in vinegar and pepper. The weather seemed to be worsening so back to bed at midnight to more rain.

Friday, July 4, 1997 Day 6 (“Big waver and fast water day”)

John got up at 7 am without my being aware of it. I managed to sleep soundly in spite of having been sleeping so much of the day before! It was still windy and cold but we were running out of reserve time so had porridge for breakfast and got onto the water at about 10:30.

We were mostly in rapid water, at one point maxing out at 18.7 kph! In only a few places did the wind slow us down to 6 kph or so. (The G.P.S. provided us with speed data!) The rapid water resulted in some waves and occasional bailing was necessary.

We came across a cabin which turned out to be a government facility, all locked up; it probably functions as a gauging facility. It's by the oxbow lake (G.P.S. 596232/7402628). We had lunch there, freezing on the little wooden deck. Many ground squirrels were around, one of them eating out of Peter's hand.

We ended the day along a very very long stretch of fast turbulent water with big waves. There was little opportunity to bail the water which kept swamping over the top. This day I was in the bow with John in the stern taking every opportunity to get as much water out as possible. On one occasion we pulled ashore fearful that we might be pushing our luck. The river was not narrow and it might well have taken us a long time to get to shore if we'd have filled up with water and capsized. One might argue that we were foolish not to have used the spray skirts that were with us for the whole trip, but none of us seemed to have much enthusiasm for putting them on.

We pulled in to camp (Camp 5: 0605580/7419392) at 5:12 exhilarated from the day’s fast water and big waves. This time we were on river left: large rocks by the shore just up stream from a considerable ledge, tents set back on a narrow strip of flat land between the shoreline willows and the rising hill behind. Peter and John went fishing; Peter stepped on a wobbly rock and fell back into the water! He got wet but no major damage was done. We found fragile fern; shield fern had been previously identified. For supper we had Earl's Burnside Veal Stew (see Appendix B for recipe.)

After supper, quite late in the evening we hiked up to the top of the hill behind camp. It was a high one! Earl was funny considering what others (especially his wife) might think if told of what we were doing (late, after eating and drinking, climbed a mountain, sat up there and smoked and drank, etc) but without being there, how could anyone hope to understand! The vista was stunning with the canoes and tents way down below, mere dots beside the water in the huge river valley.

Saturday, July 5, 1997 Day 7 (The “take out”)

There wasn't much further to go so we were in no hurry this morning. The canoeing began with an upstream ferry to get to river right where the ledge could be run with ease. There was some more fast water with big waves for a while and two boulder strewn ledges, one in particular (“FUN” 611305/7420862) caused problems for John and me and especially for Earl and Bobby, but we got through without major problems and got to the takeout for the big portage early in the day.

A lot of indecision about moving canoes, setting up tents, etc. resulted in a missed opportunity to bath while the sun was out but a bath and a Scotch Whiskey taste test was held nevertheless. Supper was eaten and tents were set up.

Then began the first carry. En route we experienced wonderful views of Bathurst Inlet with its cuesta islands and the settlement along the shore of the river mouth. The canoes and sundries were carried across what proved to be a long and very difficult portage culminating in a most unpleasant and frightening surprise. The bay into which we were to launch was filled with ice about 60 ft thick. Near its edge over which we had to go to get to the water were crevasses and the edge itself was broken up and it seemed that we wouldn't be able to get down. Eventually we learned to use a canoe as a bridge to cross the biggest and otherwise impassable crevasse and after a bit of exploring a spot where a descent could be made was found. We therefore left the canoes on the ice rather than take them down to water’s edge as had been our plan.

We headed back, this time staying closer to the river to see the gorge and falls and got lost as we got closer to camp.
John: "On the way back from the portage we were scattered as far apart as 3/4 mi, each thinking we were roughly retracing our steps. There is no 'marked' trail."

As we went to bed, no one was looking forward to the next day’s task!
Although much was unpleasant about the portage, mention should be made of the wonderful views from the hill tops and ridges. We could see Bathurst Inlet with the cuestas coming out of the water as an extension of the Bathurst ridge line to the south of us. There was also an unobstructed view of the Lodge and Settlement visible through the crisp clear arctic air.

Sunday, July 6, 1997 Day 8 (Portage from hell / arrival at Bathurst Inlet)

We broke camp and started out with plans to carry the first load about half a mile and then return for the second and carry it beyond the first about a quarter mile and then continue in such a vein. It seemed to me more practical to leave bags at prominent spots so that they could serve as landmarks helping to orientate oneself during the back and forth trips. Each carried two sets of bags with the stronger ones doing more than their share, i.e. Bobby and Don in particular would carry some stuff part way for the slower ones while they caught up. The terrain was difficult and variable. There were steep sections, particularly bad were some descents on rocky terrain. Walking on the tussock covered bog is difficult, particularly when carrying a heavy load. We even came across the 6 ft. wide, 4 ft. deep ditches (tundra polygons) mentioned by Raffan in which he found himself below the canoe he was carrying with the ends of the canoe resting with each end on opposite sides of the ditch! About half way along. a cold front passed through with cold, wind and rain.

At the end of it all we came to the ice field and the challenges of getting to its edge (using the canoe bridge) and down to the shore at the bottom of its face. This was not without danger because of the uncertainty of the stability of the ice and also the weight of our belongings. At one time a canoe loaded with bags got out of control and slid down. Luckily no damage was done and no one was injured. Although not far, getting the bags from the bottom of the ice to waters edge presented its own difficulties because of the huge rocks over which we had to walk. The alternative to all of this was to portage an additional three or four miles without the certainty that we'd be any better off at the end of it! We were later told by people at the lodge that no one could remember the ice remaining this late in the year ever before. It apparently gets blown into this bay by the fierce winds. (This explanation seems to have some flaws in that it would require a south wind and the winds are generally from the north.) (John: "The explanation I received
about the ice was that the rivers when they become frozen in the winter always overflow and of course melt during the course of the spring thaw. The thaw didn't take place this year as early as usual due to the coldness of the Spring.")

After a short snack we got into the canoes and set out for Bathurst Inlet Lodge passing first the outflow of Kapolak Falls where the river drops to its delta. We were warned to stay to the far side because canoeists have been known to capsize as the current hits them from the starboard side. The delta is not at all as described on the map; the sands have shifted tremendously with the current far to the north of where it used to be. Closer to the
lodge we were able to turn south to the lodge instead of going out into the bay and then heading back as the map indicated we would have to do, but don't make this turn too soon or you'll get stuck on the sandbars.

The last part of this paddle was over very open water with big waves. We landed by their platform boat and were invited in for coffee but elected first to get our camp set up. We were then directed to the camping area several hundred yards to the east of the lodge by their air strip. Our hopes to get (and pay for) a meal were met with a clear refusal in the form of an invitation to join them for coffee at 8 pm (by implication: don't come before then.) We eventually met Trish and Glen who told us that we wouldn't be flying out until 4 pm. We had been told explicitly to be at the head of the portage on the 5th in order to do the portage on the 6th to be available for an early flight on the 7th. When we told him of this he seemed to become somewhat offensively defensive.

Upon leaving the Lodge at 9 pm., the temperature was 4 Centigrade. Between the temperature, the tremendous wind and the depressing way we were received at the Lodge, some, especially Earl, were quite prepared to go to bed and skip dinner. We finally decided to have supper and the choice of same came down to pizza's (done in Don's new baker) or cheese questadillas. The sun came out about 10 pm and, as is usual in the Arctic, the temperature rose considerably. In spite of the earlier disappointments we had great fun over supper, a much more enjoyable time I am sure than we would have had eating in the lodge.

I set up the sun rise/set photo I had been planning.

Monday, July 7, 1997 Day 9 (Return to YZF)
Boyd showed up to meet the Twin Otter midmorning and agreed to let those who wanted to, to travel with it (at no cost) to Cambridge Bay and back. John, Earl and Bobby went off while the rest of us stayed behind. We started on a walk to the East with Bryan (an Inuit teenager) but he and I turned back early. He had to get back to work and I was feeling exhausted. I spent the rest of the day sitting in the lodge until the announcement was made that the Twin Otter was about to land. We hurried back and were soon off with lots of lodge guests heading for YZF.

In Yellowknife we had an opportunity to visit the bookstore for a while and then made our way to the Wild Cat Cafe.

Tuesday, July 8, 1997 (Back home)

Most were up early to catch their flights. Earl and I went off to catch our respective flights leaving at about 9 am.

Left Yellowknife July 8, at 9:00 am on AC8952; arrived Edmonton at 10:33; left at 11:30 on AC1836; arrived Vancouver at 12:10; left at 3:30 pm on AC5112 (alias UA1967); arrivd SFO at 5:35.

The canoes:
John suggests that we make mention of the relative merits of the canoes we had. The one he and I used much of the time was the Old Town Discovery and clearly was inferior to the others, mainly regarding the freeboard, especially in the front. I seem also to remember that there was less room for the bow paddler. Don's comments are: "The 'submarine' was an Old Town Discovery - the same as the boat Alex and Dave used on. the Bloodvein - and the others were some model of Mad River canoe. Obviously, from this comment, the Mad River boats were the better ones."

Appendix A – Botany species identified

Fragrant shield fern (Dryopteris fragrans)
Fragile fern
Blue grass (Poa sp.)
Arctic cotton, Cotton grass (Eriophorum sp.)
Willows (Salix sp.)
Net-veined willow (Salix reticulate)
Green Alder (Ainus crispa)
Dwarf birch (Betula glandulosa)
Star chickweeds (Stellaria sp.)
Moss-campion (Silene acaulis)
Cardamine digitata
Northern white anemone, few-flowered anemone (anemone parviflora)
Mountain avens (Dryas integrfolia)
Snow cinquefoil (Potentilla nivea)
Clod berry, baked-apple berry (Rubus chamaemorus)
Prickly saxifrage, three-toothed saxifrage (Saxifraga tricuspidata)
Arctic lupine (Lupimus arcticus)
Crow berry
Black berry
Bog rosemary (Andromeda polifolia)
White arctic heather, arctic bell heather (Cassiope tetragona)
Bear berry (Arctostaphylos sp.)
Labrador tea (Ledum decumbens)
Lapland rosebay (Rhododendron lapponicum)
Lignon berry, mountain cranberry, rock cranberry (Vaccinium vitis-ideaea)
Diopensia lapponica

Appendix B – Cooking

Earl’s Burnside Veal Stew

1 large can stewed tomatoes
5 cups water
half a red and half a green pepper medium chopped
a dab of Gray Pupon mustard
1 tbsp paprika
1 tbsp curry powder
reconstituted mushrooms presoaked 10 hrs
2/4 Spanish onion medium chopped
3 cloves garlic finely chopped
salt and pepper (fresh ground)
juice of half a lemon
Bring to boil, simmer 20 minutes, stir constantly, careful not to burn (esp. at end) then add
soya sauce
Peter's dehydrated peas & lentils
pre-cooked veal in bite sized pieces (l 1/2 chops)
Simmer another 10 minutes with care not to burn.
Serves 6 hungry men!

Addendum: suggest also a little bit of wine in the broth; also freeze dried corn & peas; brandy or sherry.

A book I might like to get (not relevant to the above): Wanapitei Canoe Tripper's Cookbook: wilderness cooking for fun and nutrition by Carol Hodgins, Published by Highway Book Shop, Cobalt, Ontario.

Appendix C: UTM Grid reference and use of the Global Positioning System (G.P.S.)

The G.P.S. can give locations in a variety of ways. The best known is Latitude and Longitude but I find the Universal Transverse Mercator Grid a much more useful system, especially for use with Canadian maps which have the grid lines printed on them. (Some of the newer American topo maps now also have these lines but the majority have only the tick marks at the edges and the lines have to be drawn in by the user.)

The system is based on references that allow "Easting' and "Northing'. Easting is done relative to a Center Line Reference for each Zone. It can be calculated by the following formula: CLR = (zone x 6) - 3. Our Zone this trip was 12 so the CLR was 12x6-3=69. One converts the CLK to the Central Meridian as follows:
if< 180: (180 - CLR) degrees of longitude West (110 degrees West in our case)
if> 180: (CLR - 180) degrees of longitude East

Easting is with reference to the Central Meridian which is 500000. 654321 indicates a spot 154.321 Ian to the east of the Central Meridian. 496500 is 3.5km to the west of the Central Meridian.

Northing in the northern hemisphere is easier to understand. It simply refers to the metric distance from the equator. For example 7354321 is 7,354.321 km North of the equator.

I've used bold type but usually the last two digits of the Kilometer part of the number is written in larger numbers and the other digits are written in smaller numbers as follows:
UTM 12 73 67345/0654678 This represents a point 7,367.345 km north of the arctic circle and 154.678km east of the central meridian of zone 12 which is 110 degrees West.


FRIDAY, JUNE 27, 1997 Day "-1"
-left SFO --> YVR -> YEG -> YZF

SATURDAY, JUNE 28, 1997 Day "0" (Fly out day)
-B 'fast, Twin Otter flight, wind/cold, paddling aborted
-lunch, retreat, camp (Cl)

SUNDAY, JUNE 29, 1997 / DAY 1 (Still wind bound.)
-non-start day, cold/wind, hike to N/W, wolves, caribou to South & East

MONDAY, JUNE 30, 1997 / DAY 2 (First day on the water.)
-sunny/clear/calm, caribou, rapids: pinned, cameras wet!
-hospitable camp (C2), west shore/river left just beyond Hackett River
-unobstructed north sky, first bath (only total submersion)

TUESDAY, JUNE 1, 1997 / DAY 3 ("Lost cup camp")
-canoed with Peter, lost in bay- exit difficult to see, almost knocked over by a rock
-Don caught fish at lunch, cold when not paddling, passed Amphitheater camp & on to
C3: first camp c large boulders, fishing but no success, lost cup, early night.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 2,1997/ DAY 4 (Muskoxen, Arctic Circle, Confluence Day)
-canoed with Don, some open water but mostly fast wavy water, lined ledge,
-muskox herd, lunch on rocks by large willows, sleeping muskoxen.
-stopped at arctic circle (orange stake), immersed,
-confluence, no big water, got ice
C4: 2nd camp with big rocks, these were tippy!, willows & alders, Martinis!
-fondue, hike overlooking confluence, wind/rain at night,

THURSDAY, JULY 3, 1997 DA Y 5 ("Mid trip wind bound day")
-wind/cold/rain- elected to stay put, hike to the North ("RIP"), Earl lost binoculars
-soup & sleep

FRIDAY, JULY 4, 1997 / Day 6 (“Big wave and fast water day")
-set out in spite of wind & cold; canoed with John
-mostly fast water (maxed out at 18.7 kph!), slowed to 6 kph in a few"open areas
-big waves, constantly bailing, occasionally an eddy out
-C5: 3rd rocky camp site, this one on river left at ledge with tents along a narrow ridge
-Peter fell fishing, Earl's Burnside veal stew, hike to top for drinks, vista & Camels

SATURDAY, JUL Y 5, 1997 / Day 7 (The "take out")
-short day on water, late start, early arrival, fast water, "Fun" rapids
-pulled into takeout spot (ENDl) 13:53
-portaged canoes and sundries to ice field! '18:28; long trip back: saw gorge, got lost.

SUNDAY, JULY 6, 1997 / Day 8 (portage from hell/arrival at Bathurst Inlet)
-portage ! Getting past ice was an adventure, on to Bathurst.Inlet Lodge and a chilly reception amid cold weather.

MONDAY,JULY 7, 1997 / Day9 (Return toYZF) .
-some to Cambridge Bay, eventually all to Yellowknife, book Store and Wild Cat Cafe

TUESDAY, JULY 8, 1997 (Back home)
- YZF -> YEG -> YVR (met Nicky) -> SFO

Maps Required
Topo Maps (1:50,000): 
see text
Topo Maps (1:250,000): 
see text
Other Maps: 
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Special Comments: 

Report submitted by Allan Jacobs, on behalf of Alex Kleider, who holds the copyright.
My scanner software made a lot of errors, not all of which I caught.