View topic - snowshoe lacing?

According to Craig MacDonald, the difference between fine netting and coarse makes little difference in flotation, in spite of what many people think.

Fine netting is lighter, therefore easier to walk with. Heavy netting withstands abrasion better, so in some conditions (typically spring snow which has melted and re-frozen) is more durable.

For what little it's worth, I have several pairs of snowshoes of different styles and with different types of netting. The only difference I have noticed in flotation is due entirely to the size of the snowshoe. When pulling heavy loads on light powder snow, I wear large 19x39 snowshoes which have babiche that is relatively light by modern standards.

On settled snow, I use either 14x42 Huron pattern, or 14x30 bearpaws. According to the Faber website, these sizes and styles will support the same weight range. The bearpaws have heavy netting, the Huron style have light netting, and I haven't noticed any difference in flotation.

If you are buying Fabers, make sure that you get the "Faber" brand. Their "Snowtrek" brand uses cheap split hide babiche, which sags and wears out quickly. The tightness or coarseness of the weave will make less difference to you than the quality of the leather.

I agree with Lost_Patrol's comments. I also have snowshoes with both fine and heavy webbing, but its full grain. Go for Faber, not Snowtrek.

Also: Faber just lightly dips its shoes in varnish. That's not good enough for wet snow. Brand new snowshoes should get at least two extra coats of spar varnish at home. It is good to re-varnish every year or so if the snowshoes get use. I have snowshoes with about 6 coats of spar varnish on now, and its not too much.

Hoop - do you apply the spar varnish only to the wood, or to the rawhide as well?

Do you prep the surface first?

Hi Jon,

No base prep. Spar varnish on everything. (take your bindings off, of course!). Spar varnish stays flexible when dry, so it tends not to crack and flake off. Don't use a brittle urethane or anything like that.

I use a little roller brush and tray to do most of the babiche, and a cheapo bristle brush for the wood and nooks and cranies. If old spar varnish has thickened in the can, you can use some mineral spirits to thin it.

I have to agree with Hoop regarding Faber varnish. I had a new pair a few years ago and was surprised to see the varnish on the gut very worn after just one season.

I put 3 coats on right after that. I'm otherwise very satisfied with them.