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 Post subject: Re: Paint options
PostPosted: June 21st, 2021, 7:25 am 
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Joined: March 15th, 2021, 8:27 am
Posts: 13
Mat R wrote:
AR, that paint job looks sweet! Congrats!

Mike and Pat, thanks for all the advice, the boat has a burgundy gelcoat, however a lot of the geloat has been pounded away. I think I am going to try for a single quart job, and will be sure to thoroughly prep the hull with epoxy resin before paint so I don't have any cracks or exposed cloth to fill (there is a lot). The gelcoat on the sides is in okay shape. And these spray deck loops are sure to be fun...

I've attached a pic.

I do like the burgundy with the white bottom idea, reminds me of a mint condition Langford canoe I saw for sale for $400 CAD, with that same colour combo. Messaged the seller 5 minutes after posting and they were already swimming in offers.

Thanks again!



Thanks Mat! For your earlier question, a quart of paint covered 3 coats on my 16 footer. I actually ended up going a bit lighter on the first coat (I was nervous I'd use too much!), then slathered it up on the 2nd and had more than enough still for the third (I'd say there was still a bit left even after the third coat for any touch ups if you need it).


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 Post subject: Re: Paint options
PostPosted: June 21st, 2021, 11:17 am 
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Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 1947
Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
Mat, even without the addition of a white bottom scuff line I would tape and paper the hull part way up the sides, and fill/fair/flush the worn bottom as well as possible. Those “bottom” scraps and scratches go a fair ways past the chines. Maybe some thickened G/flex in really deep gouges and cracks, then roll & tip a coat of epoxy, let cure and sand.

An easy way to mark that “scuff” line evenly below the gunwales is to drill a hole at the desired distance in a flexible ruler for a pencil point and run the ruler along the outwale, marking a pencil line. This is for a below outwale side stripe, but same concept.

ImagePB080013 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

ImagePB080015 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

ImagePB100057 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

When I say “tape and paper”, well, I go a little nuts with that. Even rolled and tipped paint coats will drip, and epoxy is worse, especially on the sides where gravity will have its way.

I tape the line, then use a couple little pieces of Scotch tape to put newspaper half way up that tape line, then re-tape the transition between the 1st tape stripe and the paper. Nothing can drip down past or in-between the tape and paper mask. When I pull the second tape stripe the paper comes with it, and the first stripe of tape gives me another look to make sure any drips or sags have ceased running before I pull it.

ImageP6130019 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr
It pays to have a can of acetone and some pieces of tightly folded paper towel handy when you pull either of the tape runs. There are occasional drips and creeps under the tape, and they are easy to wipe off while the paint is still damp.

Taping the spray cover loops shouldn’t be that hard; little lengths of painters tape pressed together on each side of each loop. Remember to leave little fold-over pull tabs on both pieces. Same for any place you use painters tape, beats the hell out of digging at a flat edge in frustration with your fingernail.

You can use that same taping/papering technique to add design, a stripe, or stem decorations.

ImageP7090011 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Stuff drips

ImageP7090022 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I like those black stem accents; the boat (1971 Old Town Sockeye) already had black everywhere; on the decks from past repairs, coming edge, Dynel and graphite powder skid plates* and rudder. The stem swirls tie it all that black together nicely.

ImageP7210030 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

*Skid plates. I prefer to install skid plates before I paint. There are often scrapes and gouges I need to make flush at the stems. I do then have to tape the skid plates before I paint, but that is easy enough, just tape, no paper. I’d rather have the skid plates epoxied to the hull than to layers of paint.

Same taping and papering technique. Epoxy drips on vertical sharp vee stem are inevitable, especially if trying to saturate Dynel or multi-layers of S-glass; I make little Sharpie marks at the bottom of a few drips, mark again if (eh, when) the epoxy keeps dripping, and don’t pull the paper ‘til the drips have ceased.

That is a very narrow Dynel skid plate on a sharp stemmed lake boat (MRC Malecite), so the wear was concentrated in a narrow area.

ImageP9070009 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The end result was well worth the effort.

ImageP9150010 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

On a canoe with more wear area or stem damage you can make the skid plates wider.

ImageP5050017 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Mat R wrote:
I do like the burgundy with the white bottom idea, reminds me of a mint condition Langford canoe I saw for sale for $400 CAD, with that same colour combo.


I am now seriously spending your money, time and effort, but I too really like that two-tone white bottom look, and if you are already taping and papering along the sides for an epoxy coat, well, a can of white and a can of burgundy will definitely lay more coats of paint than you will need. With lots left over for. . . . .humm, got another (smaller) boat that needs attention?

My congratulations to Pat and AR83; helluva difference, you wouldn’t know it was the same canoe. And now that you have painted one the next will come out even better.

Y’all has me jonsing to find a beater boat in need of a full makeover. I have one in mind, if a friend passes on it and the seller will drop his price. 1985 kevlar Mad River Courier that needs to be gutted to naked hull and rebuilt.

Right now it is my Top 10 ugliest canoes ever seen


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